Samsung Galaxy S23 Screen Replacement

Written By: Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Comments: 2

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to replace the screen in your Samsung Galaxy S23.

This guide shows how to replace the screen on its own. If your replacement part is a screen that's pre-installed on a frame, follow this guide.

This process will destroy your old screen. Don't use this guide if you're trying to harvest a screen.

Note: Retaining water resistance after the repair will depend on how well you reapply the adhesive, but your device will lose its IP (Ingress Protection) rating.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Allow your phone's battery to drain below 25%, as a charged lithium-ion battery is a potential safety hazard. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Unplug any cables from your phone.
Hold the side key and the volume down button, then select "Power off" to turn off your phone.

Step 2

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the back cover for two minutes to soften the adhesive.
A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are susceptible to heat damage.

Step 3

Apply a suction handle to the back cover, as close to the center of the right edge as possible.
Pull up on the suction handle with strong, steady force to create a gap between the cover and the frame.
If you have trouble creating a gap, apply more heat to further soften the adhesive. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.

When inserting the first pick, I partly cracked my backplate: if the opening is not long enough, inserting the pick puts vertical pressure on the backplate and it'll crack. I suggest slicing a few centimeters of glue before inserting the pick.

Stéphane L -

Step 4

Slide the pick back and forth along the right edge to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick inserted near the bottom right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 5

Apply a heated iOpener to the bottom edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 6

Insert a second opening pick at the bottom right corner.
Rotate it around the bottom right corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 7

Slide your opening pick to the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the bottom left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Apply a heated iOpener to the left edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 9

Rotate the opening pick around the bottom left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 10

Insert a third opening pick at the bottom left corner.
Slide your pick toward the top left corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top left corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 11

Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the back cover for two minutes.

Step 12

Insert a fourth opening pick at the top left corner.
Rotate it around the top left corner to separate the adhesive.

Step 13

Slide your opening pick to the top right corner to separate the adhesive.
Leave the pick in the top right corner to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 14

There's a remaining patch of adhesive directly under the flash.
Line up the tip of an opening pick with the flash cutout.
Slide the opening pick under the top of the back cover until you feel it start to snag on the adhesive.
You should see the opening pick through the flash cutout.
Keep sliding the pick toward the bottom of the phone until you feel the adhesive completely separate from the back cover.
Avoid touching the rear cameras with your pick. Pushing against the lenses risks damaging them.

Step 15

Grab and remove the back cover.
If your cover is still sticking to the frame, slide an opening pick around the perimeter until the cover completely separates.
During reassembly:
This is a good point to power on your phone and test all functions before sealing it up. Be sure to power your phone back down completely before you continue working.
Remove any adhesive chunks with a pair of tweezers or your fingers. Apply heat and isopropyl alcohol (90% or greater) if you're having trouble removing the adhesive.
If you're using custom-cut adhesives, follow this guide.
If you're using double-sided tape, follow this guide.

Just before removing the backplate, take care at the long ribbon cable (in white on the 2nd and 3rd photos, next to the black wireless charging patch). In my case, part of it was gently glued to the backplate for some reason, so double-check that you've separated it from the backplate before attempting to open it, or you might just rip the ribbon cable entirely. In my case, this was preventing me lifting the backplate for more than a few millimeters, and I'm glad I didn't force it before trying to understand exactly what was going on.

Stéphane L -

Step 16

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 17

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the thirteen 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:
Six screws securing the wireless charging coil
Seven screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 18

Insert the point of your spudger in the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.
Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 19

Use your fingers to lift the loudspeaker away from the frame to fully separate it.
Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.
During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 20

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the wireless charging coil press connector from the motherboard.
To re-attach press connectors, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Don't press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend and cause permanent damage.

Step 21

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the thirteen 3.5 mm‑long screws securing the wireless charging coil and the loudspeaker:
Six screws securing the wireless charging coil
Seven screws securing the loudspeaker

Step 22

Insert the point of your spudger in the notch at the top left corner of the loudspeaker.
Pry up to unclip the loudspeaker from the frame.

Step 23

Use your fingers to lift the loudspeaker away from the frame to fully separate it.
Remove the wireless charging coil and loudspeaker from the frame.
During reassembly, press around the perimeter of the loudspeaker to clip it to the frame.

Step 24

Use the point of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector.

Step 25

Use the flat end of your spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable press connector from the back of the screen.

Step 26

Put the back cover on the frame to protect the battery and your phone's internals from damage.
Don't apply new adhesive at this step, as you'll need to remove the back cover again to finish reassembly. The old adhesive will be enough to keep the back cover in place while you replace the screen.
Flip your phone over so the screen is facing up.

Step 27

The gap between the front glass and frame is very small. You'll need a thin, rigid tool such as an iFlex to create an initial gap.
Take the following safety precautions while removing the front glass during the next steps:
Don't grip the iFlex or similar metal tools by the edges—they're very sharp.
The front glass may shatter and spread shards of glass around your workspace. Consider wearing gloves and safety glasses to protect yourself.

Step 28

Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the top edge of the screen until it's almost too hot to touch.
Be careful not to heat the phone hotter than this—the battery is susceptible to heat damage.

Step 29

Apply a suction handle to the center of the screen's top edge, as close to the edge as possible.
Insert the iFlex at a downward angle in the earpiece speaker gap between the top edge of the front glass and frame.
Lift the suction handle with strong, steady force and lower the iFlex so it slides under the front glass. A large portion of the front glass may separate—that's fine.
The front glass will peel away from the display panel, causing it to appear discolored. This is normal. You will remove the display panel in a later step.
The iFlex only needs to be inserted just enough to separate the front glass and create an initial gap. If inserted too far, it may damage the front-facing camera.

Step 30

Rotate the iFlex around one of the top corners of the front glass to separate enough adhesive to insert an opening pick.

Step 31

Slide the opening pick around the perimeter of the front glass to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Step 32

Lift the front glass off the frame and remove it.

Step 33

Insert an opening pick under the screen panel.
If you're having trouble separating the adhesive, use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the screen panel until it's warm to the touch.

Step 34

Slide the opening pick around the perimeter of the screen panel to separate the adhesive securing it to the frame.

Step 35

Grip a corner of the screen panel and slowly peel it off the frame to separate the remaining adhesive.
Remove the screen panel.
You're now ready to replace your screen.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—be sure to transfer remaining components and remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Samsung Galaxy S23 Answers Community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl

Member since: 16/01/22

163004 Reputation

Samsung Galaxy S23 Screen Replacement

Introduction

Tools

Parts

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